Top Entry vs. Covered vs. Enclosed Cat Litter Boxes: Which One Is Right for Your Cat?

Top Entry vs. Covered vs. Enclosed Cat Litter Boxes: Which One Is Right for Your Cat?

A covered litter box can feel like a small detail until it starts shaping the whole rhythm of your home: the smell when you walk past, litter tracked onto the tiles, and the cat that suddenly decides the bathmat is a better option.

The good news is that most “litter box problems” are really “litter box fit” problems. When the box suits the cat and the household, the routine becomes almost invisible, which is exactly what you want.

Why the style of litter box matters

Cats are picky in a practical way. They want a toilet that feels safe, stays reasonably clean, and makes sense for their body. Humans want something that keeps odour down, looks acceptable in a living space, and is easy to maintain.

A covered litter box, a top-entry box, and a fully enclosed (often furniture-style) box can all work brilliantly, but they create different trade-offs around airflow, privacy, cleaning access, and how much litter escapes.

One box can be “perfect” for one cat and a poor choice for another. A senior cat with stiff hips, a long-haired cat with toe fluff, a kitten still learning the routine, and a confident adult in a quiet home will each respond differently.

Three common designs and what they change

Here’s a practical comparison of the three styles people usually weigh up. Think of this as a starting point, not a rulebook.

Design

How cats enter

What it tends to do well

What to watch

Top-entry

Jump onto the lid and drop in through the top opening

Reduces litter tracking, discourages dogs and toddlers, and keeps spray inside

Not ideal for seniors, cats with mobility limits, or cats that dislike enclosed spaces

Covered (hooded)

Walk in through a front door (sometimes with a flap).

Adds privacy, reduces scatter, and offers a familiar “cave” feel

Can trap odour if not cleaned often; some cats dislike the flap or low light

Fully enclosed (furniture-style or box-in-box)

Side entry, sometimes via tunnel

Hides the box visually, can improve odour control, and fits open-plan rooms

Cleaning can be fiddly, airflow may be limited, and size constraints can matter

A covered litter box is the most common middle ground: less exposed than an open tray, less demanding than a top-entry leap, and usually easier to clean than furniture-style enclosures.

Top-entry boxes: tidy floors, different learning curve

Top-entry designs are popular in busy households because they’re excellent at containing chaos. The lid acts like a doormat, catching granules from paws as the cat exits. Many people also like that it’s harder for a dog to access, which can remove a whole category of stress.

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That said, the entry method is a real filter. A cat needs to be comfortable jumping, turning, and dropping into a contained space. Confident cats often take to it quickly. Cats that are cautious, older, or physically limited may avoid it, and avoidance is one of the fastest paths to toileting outside the box.

If you’re considering top-entry, the goal is not to “train the cat to accept it” at all costs. The goal is to pick the path of least resistance for the cat you have right now.

A top-entry box often suits:

  • Active adults: Cats that like climbing and don’t hesitate to jump up and down.
  • Dog-sharing homes: Households where preventing access matters as much as odour control.
  • High-tracking cats: Long-haired cats or cats that kick litter like they’re digging for treasure.
  • Litter flingers: Cats that scatter granules over the rim of a standard tray.

Covered (hooded) boxes: familiar, calmer, but watch ventilation

A covered litter box is often chosen for one main reason: it makes the litter area feel more private and looks more contained. Many cats do appreciate the security of a “roof”, and many homes appreciate not seeing the litter the moment they enter the laundry.

This style can also reduce scatter, especially when the entry is slightly raised. It’s a sensible option when you want a neater footprint without asking your cat to climb vertically.

The trade-off is airflow. Any hooded design can hold smells if scooping slips. Cats notice odour more than we do, and a box that feels stale can become unattractive quickly. If you choose a covered litter box, pair it with a realistic cleaning rhythm, and make sure the internal space is genuinely roomy. A tight hood can feel like a trap.

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After you’ve looked at size, these quick checks help:

  • Easy-off lid
  • Wide doorway
  • Smooth interior corners
  • Stable base
  • Enough headroom for turning

Some cats dislike a swinging flap. If your cat hesitates, you can remove the flap (many designs allow this) and reintroduce it later only if needed. The aim is steady acceptance, not a battle of wills.

Fully enclosed boxes: aesthetics and privacy in one package

Fully enclosed options range from “box within a box” designs to furniture-style cabinets that hide the tray. They can look excellent in an open-plan apartment or a living area where you want the litter zone to disappear visually.

Cats often enjoy the extra privacy, and the structure can contain spray and kicked litter well. For some households, that alone makes it worth the extra effort.

PAKEWAY Foldable Enclosed Cat Litter Box with Stainless Steel Tray

The catch is maintenance access. A beautiful enclosure that is awkward to clean tends to become a problem over time. If the entry tunnel is narrow, a large cat may feel cramped. If airflow is restricted, odour can build up faster than expected. When evaluating an enclosed unit, picture the weekly full refresh, not just the first day it’s set up.

If you choose this style, look for an interior space that allows a full turn and a natural squat without touching the sides. Comfort reduces the chance of a cat perching on the edge or aiming poorly.

Choosing based on your cat, not the catalogue

It helps to start with the cat’s non-negotiables: comfort, access, and a sense of safety. Then you layer in household realities like children, dogs, space limits, and how often you can scoop.

Size is the most underestimated variable. Many cats tolerate a too-small box, but tolerance is not the same as preference. A roomy box supports cleaner posture and more complete burying, which can reduce smells and mess.

Mobility matters too. Kittens can climb into almost anything, but they can also be startled by flaps or dark interiors. Seniors may need a low step-in height and an easy exit. Cats recovering from surgery often need a shallow entry and stable footing.

If you’re stuck between covered vs top-entry vs fully enclosed, try this decision path:

  1. Choose the easiest entry your cat can use confidently every time.
  2. Pick the largest footprint that fits your space without crowding the cat.
  3. Add more “coverage” only if it solves a real problem (tracking, dogs, privacy) without creating a new one (avoidance, odour build-up).

Multi-cat homes add another layer. Many cats prefer options. Even if you love the idea of a single enclosed unit, having more than one box style can reduce tension and prevent one cat from guarding access. Placement matters as much as the design: a covered litter box pushed into a loud corner beside a washing machine can feel risky, while the same box in a quiet spot can become a favourite.

Set-up tips to get a quick “yes” from your cat

A new box should feel like an upgrade, not a trap. If you’re switching from an open tray to a covered litter box, consider a gentle transition: put the new box beside the old one, use the same litter, and allow your cat to investigate without pressure.

Scent and texture are powerful. Keep the litter type consistent during the changeover. Once the cat is reliably using the new box, then you can experiment with different litter if you want to reduce tracking or improve odour control.

Cleaning routine matters more with covered and enclosed designs. A hood can hold smells, and trapped smells can make a cat hesitate. Daily scooping is the simplest way to keep any covered litter box attractive. A complete change on a regular schedule, paired with a mild, unscented wash, helps keep the box from developing a lingering odour that your cat won’t forgive.

Also consider the “exit experience”. If litter is caught in a narrow doorway or tunnel, cats can track it out in clumps. A small mat placed outside the entry can help, and positioning the box so the cat must step out onto a stable surface makes the area feel safer.

Shopping for a covered litter box in Australia

Australian homes are often a mix of indoor and indoor-outdoor routines, which can change what you need from a litter setup. An indoor-only cat may use the box many times a day, while a cat that also spends time outdoors might use it more sporadically. Either way, quality of plastic, secure clips, and ease of cleaning tend to matter more than fancy features.

If you’re buying online, look closely at internal measurements, not just the outside dimensions. A covered litter box can look large in photos and still feel tight once a cat is inside and trying to turn. It’s also worth checking how the hood attaches, since a lid that lifts smoothly makes scooping faster and more consistent.

Petso, an online pet supplies retailer based in Sydney and established in 2016, carries a wide range of pet products aimed at balancing quality and value. When you’re comparing litter box styles, that mix of variety and practicality can make it easier to choose based on your cat’s needs rather than forcing a one-style-fits-all solution.

A covered litter box is often the most adaptable choice, especially when you match it to your cat’s size, personality, and daily routine, and then keep the setup clean enough that your cat never has a reason to look elsewhere.

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